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European Journal 1939

Introduction

In June 1939, my mother, Helen Gould, along with her fellow teacher, Ruth Young, and a group of their cycling friends, set out on an American Youth Hostel bicycle trip through Europe.

That trip was a journey through the last calm days before the terrible storm that was World War II.

They planned a two-month bicycling trip through Holland, Germany, Switzerland, France, and England, organized by the American Youth Hostels. Their group was a mix of Americans. They were full of youthful excitement, eager for the experiences that lay ahead, blissfully ignorant of the history they were about to pedal through.

This work combines Helen and Ruth’s daily journal entries with a summary of the day’s News From Europe that chronicles the continent’s march towards war.

Travel from the U.S. and Arrival in Holland
June 29 – July 10, 1939

June 30 1939
New York City, NY

June 30 1939

Helen's Diary - Rain. Up early to see our entrance into New York-Too rainy to see ...
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July 1 1939
Departing Hoboken/New York area

July 1 1939

Helen's Diary - Our big day! Weather perfect. Breakfasted well here ...
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July 2 1939
Off New England, west of Grand Banks

July 2 1939

Helen's Diary - Seasick! ...
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July 3 1939
North Atlantic, southwest of Newfoundland banks

July 3 1939

July 3, 1939 (Monday) Helen's Diary Felt better-managed to get down to lunch but not dinner. Got a telegram from ...
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July 4 1939
Mid-North Atlantic

July 4 1939

July 4, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen's Diary Went to breakfast today-also lunch and dinner. Flag raising ceremony in the bow and ...
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July 5 1939
Mid-North Atlantic, trending slightly northeast

July 5 1939

July 5, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen's Diary I am now used to the rolling of the ship and can walk around ...
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July 6 1939
Approaching central North Atlantic shipping lanes

July 6 1939

July 6, 1939 (Thursday) Helen's Diary Deck singing tonight-way up on top of the hospital on the aft deck. No ...
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July 7 1939
North Atlantic, west of the European approaches

July 7 1939

July 7, 1939 (Friday) Helen's Diary No Entry Ruth's Diary No Entry News from Europe Political Upheaval in Syria; Franco-Turkish ...
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July 8 1939
Southwest of Ireland

July 8 1939

July 8, 1939 (Saturday) Helen's Diary No Entry Ruth's Diary No Entry News from Europe Escalation of Nazi State-Control: Neuengamme ...
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July 9 1939
South of Ireland / Celtic Sea approaches

July 9 1939

July 9, 1939 (Sunday) Helen's Diary Cassey and I went to church in the tourist lounge at 10:30. In the ...
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July 10 1939
English Channel approaches, south of England

July 10 1939

July 10, 1939 (Monday) Helen's Diary Up early-Land! Our first sight of England. (see Mom's letter) Ruth's Diary No Entry ...
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Crossing Photos
At Sea aboard the S.S. Volendam

Crossing Photos

A gallery of photos taken during the Atlantic Crossing from New York to Rotterdam ...
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Holland and Germany
July 12 – August 1, 1939

July 11 1939

Arriving Rotterdam approaches
July 11, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary Beautiful day. Here we are at the …
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July 12 1939

Arnhem, Holland
July 12, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary July 12 – Wednesday Weather perfect. At …
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July 13 1939

Cleve, Germany
July 13, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary Walked from hostel to station-on – off …
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July 14 1939

Calcar to Cologne
July 14, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary Another grand day. Breakfast of bread, butter, …
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July 15 1939

Bonn to Bad Godesburg
July 15, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary Another beautiful day. We had to get …
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July 16 1939

Bacharach
July 16, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary I was awakened at 6:00 A.M. by …
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July 17 1939

Bacharach to Mainz
July 17, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary Bacharach to Mainz Up at six again …
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July 18 1939

Frankfurt
July 18, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary On to Frankfurt by way of Wiesbaden …
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July 19 1939

Frankfurt
July 19, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary July 19 – Wednesday — Frankfurt 8:30 …
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July 20 1939

Frankfurt to Worms
July 20, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 20, Thursday, …
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July 21 1939

Heidelberg
July 21, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 21, Friday, …
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July 22,1939

Heidelberg to Maulbronn
July 22, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 22, Saturday, …
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July 23,1939

Maulbronn to Freudenstadt
July 23, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 23, Sunday …
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July 24,1939

Freudenstadt to Freiburg
July 24, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 24, Monday …
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July 25,1939

Freiburg to Augsburg
July 25, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 25, Tuesday …
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July 26,1939

Augsburg to Munich
July 26, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 26, Wednesday …
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July 27,1939

Munich
July 27, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 27, Thursday …
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July 28,1939

Munich to Uffing
July 28, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 28, Thursday, …
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July 29,1939

Uffing to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (via Oberammergau)
July 29, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 29, Saturday …
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July 30,1939

Garmisch to Fussen
July 30, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 30, Sunday, …
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July 31,1939

Fussen to Kempten
July 31, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary July 31, Monday …
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August 1,1939

Kempten to Lindau
August 1, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 1, Tuesday, …
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Switzerland
August 2 – August 12, 1939

August 2,1939

Lindau, Germany to Kreuzlingen, Switzerland
August 2, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 2, 1939, …
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August 3,1939

Kreuzlingen to Zurich
August 3, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 3, 1939 …
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August 4,1939

Zurich
August 4, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 4, 1939 …
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August 5,1939

Zurich to Luzern
August 5, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 5, 1939, …
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August 6,1939

Luzern to Meiringen
August 6, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary August 6, Sunday, …
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August 7,1939

Meiringen to Interlaken
August 7, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Meiringen to Interlaken …
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August 8,1939

Meiringen to Zweisimmen
August 8, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary This was an …
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August 9,1939

Zweisimmen to Les Diablerets
August 9, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary The sun was …
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August 10,1939

Les Diablerets to Lausanne
August 10, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary I think this …
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August 11,1939

Lausanne to Geneva
August 11, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary (37 kilos which …
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August 12,1939

Geneva
August 12, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We had a …
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France & Return to Holland, England
August 13 – August 29, 1939

August 13,1939

Paris
August 13, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We landed at …
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August 14, 1939

Paris
August 14, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We had breakfast …
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August 15, 1939

Paris
August 15, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Breakfast at the …
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August 16, 1939

Paris
August 16, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Our last day …
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August 17, 1939

Paris to Bergen Op Zoom, Holland
August 17, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Frank awakened us …
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August 18, 1939

Bergen Op Zoom to The Hague
August 18, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We got a …
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August 19, 1939

The Hague (Scheveningen) to Amsterdam
August 19, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We prepared our …
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August 20, 1939

Amsterdam to Rotterdam
August 20, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We had the …
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August 21, 1939

Rotterdam
August 21, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We prepared our …
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August 22, 1939

London
August 22, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Again to the …
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August 23, 1939

London
August 23, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We had breakfast …
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August 24, 1939

London & Windsor
August 24, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary For the past …
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August 25, 1939

London
August 25, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Early in the …
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August 26, 1939

Southampton
August 26, 1939 (Saturday) Note This was the scheduled day to sail from …
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August 27, 1939

Southampton
August 27, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary No Entry News …
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August 28, 1939

Southampton
August 28, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary No Entry News …
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August 29, 1939

Southampton
August 29, 1939 (Tuesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary No Entry News …
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Return Voyage
August 30 – September 5, 1939

August 30, 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
August 30, 1939 (Wednesday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary The roughest sea …
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August 31, 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
August 31, 1939 (Thursday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Still a very …
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September 1, 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
September 1, 1939 (Friday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary We have just …
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September 2, 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
September 2, 1939 (Saturday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary At last the …
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September 3, 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
September 3, 1939 (Sunday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary This morning was …
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September 4 1939

At Sea aboard the S.S. Veendam
September 4, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary Our first real …
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September 5, 1939

Arrival in Hoboken, New Jersey
September 5, 1939 (Monday) Helen’s Diary No Entry Ruth’s Diary No Entry News …
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Conclusion

The carefree summer bicycle tour had concluded, but the world the travelers returned to was irrevocably changed. Their personal journey, which began with excitement and youthful adventure, ended with the somber, historic news of the outbreak of World War II. The diary captures a unique moment in history, showing how an immense global conflict was first understood not as a headline, but as a chilling radio broadcast heard in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, marking the abrupt end of an era. The diary, therefore, becomes more than a travelogue; it is a time capsule, preserving the exact moment when a summer of discovery collided with the dawn of a global catastrophe.

Many years later, in August of 1986, Ruth Young added this passage to her diary:

“I have just reread the last few pages of my journal, recalling the tragic events of my last week in England. Just as vivid in my memory today are the weeping, praying people in Westminster Abbey fearing the inevitable outbreak of war – and this was 47 years ago. Our ship, the Dutch Veendam, traveled without lights on a zig-zag course. One night a warship came suddenly upon us (British, I think). The Dutch flag was raised quickly and flood-lighted. Just as quickly the ship disappeared. I had made a collection of German, French newspapers recording those last weeks of August 1939 (which someone “lifted”?). There was absolutely no mention whatsoever in the French newspapers of the rapidly moving events!!”

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